nofuns here. Just curious since I won't be able to get any in the near future anyway but here goes.

what is your opinion on the m1a/m14 versus the ar-10? assuming I end up staying in a nonfree state when I do get one, I had thought that an m1a would be a good option because of it's style of grip which makes it "featureless" and would be able to keep the 10rd removable magazine. but I just saw an "FRS stock" for the ar-15 and am wondering if something like that could be fitted to an ar-10. (https://www.thordsencustoms.com/frs-15-rifle-stock/frs-15-stock-kits.html) something like that.

I am under the impression that parts such as grips and stocks designed for the ar15 should fit on the ar-10. if so I have heard online that the ar-10 is the superior overall weapon because it's more easily modified, easier to find parts etc.

my assumption then would be that once I can obtain a rifle legally, I would go for an ar-10 with the "featureless" hunting grip type stock, and put some decent optics on it maybe 3x to 9x zoom or something and start off with that.

I'm not experienced at all here. anyone have any input on this? personally I initially would have liked an ar platform but then thought the m1a would be better and to be honest I think it's a little cooler too. but it seems that an ar style would be a better choice, perhaps even the ar-15 instead of the ar-10? any advice?

>>685814

huh. I was under the impression that the ar10 was basically an ar15 just chambered differently or something. looks like it's not what I was thinking.

>By the way, modification is overblown.

I'm probably one of those people that would get a ton of mods because they can't leave well enough alone. Probably an optic, a bunch of tacticool rails and accessories… but really all of that junk is secondary.

>If you are real nofuns, don't buy a battle rifle first with 3-9x optics. Get yourself an air rifle and shoot 10,000 pellets through it. Then buy a 22 lr and put 10,000 rounds through it. Learn from others, gain some experience, build some fundamentals. THEN start thinking about this.

since air rifles aren't regulated the same way and only require one to be 18 or above that might be an idea. I wouldn't feel comfortable getting a firearm in my current living situation but perhaps an airgun may be okay. even more so if it were some sort of takedown model that could be stored and transported easier without having to carry a long threatening looking rifle bag or something. You wouldn't happen to know of any good takedown air rifles would you?

perhaps even a pellet pistol would be OK to practice with, or is it too far from the mechanics of a rifle to help? of course it would help if I ever get a handgun but that's not very likely I think.

I'm going skeet shooting for the first time soon as well, I'd be fine starting with a 12ga gun if I'm just going to be shooting birdshot, right? I'm a small guy but I'm not really weak. Also I suppose using a shotgun is more similar to a rifle than a handgun in some aspects.

>>685815

looks like the 10 is probably not a great idea, so then it would basically be a 7.62 vs 5.56 argument comparing the m1a to the ar15.

>A lot of M14's you find tend to need work done with em to make them run right.

what kind of work? At such time as I'm willing and able to obtain an m1a I was thinking I would just buy a new one, and by that time I would be fine to pony up the ~$1200 for it. I don't think a new one would need work, right?

I'm not averse to working on things either, I don't have much in the way of tools but I consider myself competent enough to repair a variety of things.

>Also the site you linked states those god forsaken abominations are usable with .308 guns.

so would it work on an ar-10? not that it really matters anyway considering what I'm learning about the ar-10.

thanks for the advice lads

>>686505

it looks like the screws were made that way with a little crescent cut out.

you can see that if they were fully circular, they would overlap which would not make sense. It appears that this was done so that the cut out part of one screw would allow the other to turn completely to remove or put back.

in your image you can see that the smaller screw is rotated such that its cutout lines up with the hole for the larger screw, and the larger screw has been partially turned. if the smaller screw didn't have that cutout, the larger one wouldn't have been able to turn.

assuming you want to unscrew the smaller screw, you should probably turn the larger screw counterclockwise a little so it's cutout aligns with the hole for the smaller screw, then you should be able to remove the small one.

t. nogunz but that's what the strange screw setup appears to be meant to do.