dChan - Q Origins Project Archive

What is a Magnet?

All LB

… continued for your enjoyment!

The resin casting

EPOXY TERMINOLOGY

A. Open time

Open time or wet lay-up time describes the working life of the epoxy mixture. It is the portion of the cure time, after thorough mixing, that the resin/hardener mixture will remain in a liquid state and be workable or suitable for the application. The end of the open time (wet lay-up time) marks the last opportunity to apply clamping pressure to a lay-up or assembly and obtain a dependable bond.

B. Initial cure phase

The open time is over when the mixture passes into an initial or partial cure phase (sometimes called the green stage) and has reached a gel state. At this point, the epoxy will no longer feel sticky, but you will still be able to dent it with your thumbnail. It will be hard enough to be shaped with files or planes, but too soft to dry sand. Because the mixture is only partially cured, a new application of epoxy will still chemically link with it, so the surface may still be bonded to or recoated without sanding.

C. Final cure phase

In the final cure phase, the epoxy mixture will have cured to a solid state and will allow dry sanding and shaping. You should not be able to dent it with your thumbnail. At this point, the epoxy will have reached about 90% of its ultimate strength so that clamps can be removed. The epoxy will have to be left to strengthen at room temperature. A new application of epoxy will not chemically link to it, so the surface of the epoxy must be sanded before recoating to achieve a mechanical, secondary bond.

Mold assembly

Next, we will present the steps for fixing the mold together

A. Place the pins into the inner bolt circle until you have a plane surface on the bottom of the mold and place the bushings over them. This way, you ensure a fixed placement of the bushings.

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B. Place the central plug to obtain the same plane surface on the bottom. Place the first wooden ring and fix it to the base of the mold using the bolts. Before placing the coils into the mold, pour a 1/8 inch thick layer of resin and let it harden.

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C. After the resin hardens and removes the nuts from the bolts holding the stator mold together. Fix the coils on the hardened resin and place the wires as shown in the picture - around the small bolts.

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D. Lastly, place the second wooden circle over the first circle. This will ensure a tight fixture. The second wooden circle goes over the wires. After the second wooden circle is tightly fixed with nuts, you can pour the rest of the resin into the mold.

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>>14794663

Preparing the mold

Materials:

 West Systems Epoxy 105 resin

 Spray Adhesive

 West Systems 206 slow hardener

 Ruler

 West Systems pump set

 Utility Knife

 Polyethylene film, two mil

 Vaseline Mold

 release paste

A. Before assembling the mold, apply mold release paste onto the parts of the mold that the resin will reach. Repeat two times, after 10 minutes of soaking.

B. Clean bushings with a solvent.

C. Draw the patterns of the coils on the Polyethylene film. Apply on the other side adhesive spray then spread the film on the base of the mold. Remove any wrinkles that might have remained.

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D. To prevent any leaks, pour mold release in excess on the bottom of the mold, where the outer pins are placed. Remove the extra mold release after placing and fixing the first outer wooden circles.

E. Grease the inside of the bushings with vaseline and place them together with the pins. F. Place the center plug into the central hole after coating it with mold release paste.

G. Place all coils into the mold, as shown in the picture and place the second wooden circle on the loose wires. The center plug must be at the same level as the second wooden circle. Now, look carefully if the coils are placed 1/8'' below the level of the mold. Remove the coils after removing the second wooden circle.

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Pouring epoxy – dry time test

H. You need to pour this stator in 2 layers. The first layer must set up to tack-free before you pour the next level. This is to create a chemical bond between the two layers and to ensure that the coils will not sink.

I. Following the step by step instructions, mix up a test batch to calculate the time it takes to dry. The next step is to pour a 1/8" layer of epoxy and measure the time it takes to dry. The epoxy will start from the consistency of syrup, then form peaks, then finally hold its shape with the consistency of jello. By this time the epoxy you have already poured will become tack free, and you can pour the second layer. Time will vary with temperature, humidity and time of mixing.

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>>14794680

Pouring epoxy – first layer

J. Asses the volume and prepare the quantity. If not sure, add 10% to cover the errors. K. Using the West Systems epoxy system, take one pump from resin, then one pump…

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L. Next pour into the mold and let it sit for the test dry time to set up to tack free. Note that in the next picture, the resin is hard to see since it is clear.

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>>14794663

>>14794680

>>14794694

Pouring epoxy – second layer

M. Place the coils into the mold. Apply excess release paste to the outer edge of the second wooden circle. Make sure not to pour excess paste on the inside of the wall of the mold. Fix the second wooden circle and clean the excess release paste.

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N. Check the quantity of vaseline on the tops of the pins and bushings that are not in the cast. Add more to cover if necessary to seal these areas against epoxy spillover.

O. By mixing as shown above pour epoxy into the mold until the level reaches just below the top of the mold (the second wooden circle)

P. Place a flat board that has been prepared with mold release on top of the mold, letting it rest on the center plug and the second wooden circle. Weight the board with anything available. This layer of epoxy will set up very quickly because it is thicker and it will level the surface of the mold. The board can be removed in roughly three hours.

Demolding

Q. You can remold in 24 - 48 hours, but to be sure, let the mold dry 4/5 days.

Demold in 24 - 48 hours, but let fully cure for four to five days.

R. You can polish the top side (the bottom one will be smooth because of the film) with emery until a smooth level is reached.

Note: You may obtain a slightly thicker or thinner stator. You can either adjust the thickness of the rotor flange, or the thickness of the rotor plates.

Stator wiring

Three-phase alternators can be wired in two configurations: Y-configuration or delta. We chose to wire our generator in the delta to produce higher voltages and attempt to keep the current in the phases down. This means that each phase is wired in series:

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The first column of the table (1A, 2A, 3A) should just have lengths of wire soldered onto them. Each phase is colored differently to distinguish them easily later. The next two columns show which leads to connect with pieces of wire, for example, 1B should be soldered to 4A, and then 4B should be soldered to 7A. The last column shows which lead to solder ground wires to (7B, 8B, 9B). This arrangement wires each phase in the series and brings the power out of each phase individually.

The three phases can be utilized in many ways but based on our production we are going to rectify the signal.

Air gap optimization

The air gap represents the space between the front of a rotor and the front of the stator, on each side. If the casting is done correctly, you have very little space to adjust. The magnetic potential will highly depend on this space as it is relatively easy to fall off across the air and the performance of the generator will vary.

When assembling the generator, you can quickly optimize the gaps. Once you establish the final position of the stator, you can cut tension spacers and in the end replace the all- thread with high strength bolts. If the gap is too small, take extra care to ensure that the rotors are not hitting the stator at any point.

Rotor mount (flange)

The flange will be attached to the rotor plates. You need to mount them face to face. The flange also needs to have the same four holes drilled to align with the rotors. The tube must have the same diameter as the central hole of the rotors.

The rotor mount is built from aluminum because it is resistant to corrosion and it is light. Alternatively, it can be built from a different material.

A piece of appropriately sized steel or aluminum tubing can have a steel or aluminum ring welded to it. If this is done, one must be careful to weld evenly, so that rotating balanced is maintained. The thickness of the rotor mount should match the thickness of the stator. So you need to build it after the stator is cast to determine its proper size.

To attach the flange to the shaft, two bolts can be used. Have them placed at 90 degrees to one another for a better grip.

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The driveshaft

The driveshaft is the metal bar that holds the flange and bearings. This element will spin at a high rate so take extra care when choosing the materials. We suggest stainless steel because of its resistance. At the end of the driveshaft (the one towards the collar) place a handle. Further explanations will be presented. You can manufacture any type of handle as long as it gives you leverage to make the driveshaft spin.

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You can also use carbon steel if available because it is also resistant. Regardless of the material you will use, Permatex Anti-Seize (or similar) and caution should be exercised when assembled to prevent galling and corrosion.

You need to drill holes for the support of the flange to correctly assemble and securely lock them together.

Bearing selection

The bearings you need to use are simple flange bearings that you may have lying in your garage. We opted to use a collar onto the driveshaft that is fixed to the back of the bearing. The bearing's role is also to set the distance between the bearings.

Casing

The whole generator will have a casing to protect its elements. This casing is crucial when using the generator in extreme conditions, such as snow, rain, etc. The case can help protect against everything from ice buildup to organics buildup to animal strikes. If implemented properly, it may be able to extend the life of the generator and help prevent corrosion of the assembly and wear on the bearings.

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Implementation of the case

The case is shown here sitting with one of the end caps (before the end cap had been drilled). It is made from thin aluminum sheet and attached at the top and bottom to two aluminum boxes. They were folded out of the remaining aluminum sheet and riveted together. The box which you can see inside of in the photo is the bottom box. It has Dzus connectors which provide quarter-turn access. Also, the fasteners stay in the material, so there is no way to lose them when you open the case. The case attaches to each side of the top box via hinges. This allows each side of the case to be opened separately. The boxes will be bolted to the inside face of each end cap. The anti-chafe tape will be used on all edges that come in contact with the generator to facilitate a secure seal and prevent vibration noise and wear. To get the rounded shape of the aluminum shown here, use a roller setup or carefully hand roll it yourself around a mandrel of similar size.

Tension spacers

The tension spacers are the tubes wrapped around the mounting bolts. They set the distance between the stator and the rotors. They should be placed as close as possible, but be careful with the rotor and the stator not to touch. A strong but nonferrous material (brass/bronze/aluminum) should be used. This is the moment for the air gap adjustment.

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Generator assembly

Next, we will present the assembly of the generator:

Fix the bearing to the end cap and slide them together through the driveshaft until it fixes onto the collar. Tightly screw the system together.

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Next, slide the first rotor plate (on the back side) then the flange and fix them together using the four bolt pattern. Consider using anti-seize or similar to prevent galling. Insert the locking pin into the flange to attach it to the driveshaft.

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Place the stator onto the first rotor plate. Make sure that the rotor does not come in contact with the stator. If still not suitable, readjust the distance of the tension spacers.

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Next, place the second rotor plate facing the stator. Make sure the position of this stator plate is accurate because it is crucial for the magnets to attract to one another. Be very careful at this step because the injury may occur. It is recommended to find a system of lowering the second plate into places, such as using wedges or small jacks. We used pieces of wood stuck in at 90 degrees and set the plate on. Then we inserted thinner pieces of wood next to them and pulled the larger ones out, thus slowly lowering the rotor. This was repeated until the rotor was in place.
Place the rest of the tension spacers and fix the back bearing. Fix it in place with the set screws, similar to the first bearing.

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Place the second end cap and fix it to the bearing using the bolts.
Place the cast over the generator.

You now have the complete generator that can be attached to the small rotor.

The switch

The best switching arrangement has been to use a mechanical switch which acts as a single pole changeover switch mounted on the shaft of the motor (and electrically insulated from the shaft).

First, the switch connects the battery Plus through to the Plus of the motor, causing it to rotate, as the battery Minus is permanently connected to the motor Minus. Current then flows from the battery, through the switch, and into the motor

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Then, just before 180 degrees of rotation has occurred, the switch opens and then connects the generator output through to the motor, with current flowing in the other direction through the switch.

Anonymous ID: b5c397 Oct. 15, 2021, 9:08 p.m. No.14794828 🗄️.is 🔗kun >>4855

The inverter

A power inverter, or inverter, is an electronic device or circuitry that changes direct current (DC) to alternating current (AC).

The input voltage, output voltage and frequency, and overall power handling depend on the design of the specific device or circuitry. The inverter does not produce any power; the DC source provides the power.

An inverter converts the DC electricity from sources such as batteries or fuel cells to AC electricity. The electricity can be at any required voltage; in particular, it can operate AC equipment designed for mains operation, or rectified to produce DC at any desired voltage.

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The inverter will hook up to any 12 VDC battery and step up the voltage to 115 VDC and then converts that 115 VDC to usable 115 vac x 60 Hz, some are pure sine wave just as what is running into your home and some are modified sine wave inverters. You can run lights, TV's, VCR's, DVD players,

etc…

Battery

You can use a Batcap or other kind of battery with capacitors

The battery used in this project is a Batcap. It seems important to use a Batcap battery or one with capacitors and not a battery with chemical storage of the energy.

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A battery made of capacitors can charge and discharge a lot faster than other types of batteries.

You can try to use standard batteries, but it seems difficult to use because of the high resistance to load.

Standard batteries need a lot of time to load.

You would also need a charge controller to control the load of the battery and to limit the power pushed into the battery otherwise the battery would not last long.

You can use standard batteries, but you would need more batteries.

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Conclusion

To conclude, the best ways to reduce energy consumption is right under our noses. This device highlights how easy it is to fight against Big Energy with a simple method in a century of rapidly changing environmental and economic conditions.

If more and more methods like this one were available to the public, the energy crisis would seize to exist and we believe we would live in a better world.

Anonymous ID: b5c397 Oct. 15, 2021, 9:14 p.m. No.14794855 🗄️.is 🔗kun >>4863

List of tools

Multimeter:

A Digital multimeter is ok, but we highly recommended to use an Analogue Amp Meter, which goes up to 1 amp or more. You will also need the meter to measure your thermoelectric modules as well as your battery voltages.

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Soldering Iron:

The Soldering iron will be used to solder the wires. The wires will still operate if the connections aren‟t soldered, though once you are sure it is wired correctly, you should solder all the connections.

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Drill press:

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Measuring tape: Gripper And of course:

The patent, screwdriver, wrenches, knife, and cutter

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