https://mashable.com/article/nasa-volcano-research-expedition-alaska
NASA ventured into the Valley of 10,000 Smokes, a forbidding land
September 21, 2024
Imposing bears teem in Alaska's Katmai National Park and Preserve. But few dare enter its Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.
In 1912, a volcano was born here. It erupted for nearly three days. Its ominous ash clouds left the town of Kodiak, 100 miles away, in profound darkness, nearly obscuring lanterns held at arms' length.
The valley itself was suffocated by a gargantuan load of up to nearly 700 feet of grainy volcanic ash. That ash remains there today. The once verdant land was transformed into a desolate moonscape.
For years, potent columns of steam rose from the hot rocky ash, the "smokes" that lent the region its name.
It was the biggest volcanic eruption of the 20th century.
"I'm in awe of how large that event was," Patrick Whelley, a NASA geologist, told Mashable. "What a drastic change in landscape."
This year, Whelley co-led an expedition into the valley with a team of scientists.
They investigated how this land reflects similar environments on other planets, like Mars, and the harsh, seemingly unlikely, places that might harbor life on other worlds.
Such a journey isn't for the meek.
"Wind blows abrasive ash that irritates the eyes and lungs. Your food, no matter how carefully prepared, always seems to be gritty," Mike Fitz, a former Katmai ranger who often ventured into the valley, told Mashable.
"Pumice and ash always threaten to get into your footwear where it can abrade your skin raw."
Exploration of the valley has a price. But it comes with unmatched rewards.
"On a calm day, the silence is immense," Fitz, now a naturalist for the wildlife livestreamers explore.org, said.
"I've experienced natural quiet so great on calm days at Novarupta [the volcano that erupted in 1912] that the sound of a zipper on a jacket or tent seems like an intrusion."
"The land is wild and raw and fascinating," he said.
Amid the heated 1960s Space Race, NASA sent astronauts to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.
They encountered wasted land, blanketed in volcanic rock, somewhat like the moon. (Indeed, upon later stepping foot on the surface of the moon, Buzz Aldrin marveled: "Beautiful, beautiful. Magnificent desolation." )
In the valley, the future moon explorers collected geologic samples, and learned how to convey their finds to scientists.
Over half a century later, in June, NASA geochemist Heather Graham entered this remote Alaskan realm to scour the environment for the types of life that may exist on worlds beyond ours — planets and moons.
Except Graham isn't searching for familiar signs of life, like strands of genetic material. Rather, Graham seeks the chemical activities that could support life — particularly life elsewhere that might create energy and thrive in ways different from organisms on Earth.
"We're really thinking about life as we don't know it," Graham told Mashable.
That's why Graham, and NASA's Goddard Instrument Field Team, or GIFT, endeavor to such places.
They're remote, largely untrammeled, and are the closest environments approaching something extraterrestrial on our planet.
"Look out your window," said Graham. "There's literally life everywhere. The whole point of me going to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes is it's so hard to get away from life."
Indeed, from its cataclysmic inception, the valley seemed a harsh, untamed, unearthly realm.
"This Valley appeared to be on another planet that was in the process of formation," wrote Robert F. Griggs, a scientist who discovered and documented the steaming Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes on a National Geographic Society expedition in 1916.
(While we were not granted permission to show Griggs' historic images here, they are available to see on Katmai National Park and Preserve's website and this Park Service publication.)
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